Sep 20th 2013, 14:00, by Katharine K. Zarrella
Label: Eddie Borgo
Need to know: Do not mess with Eddie Borgo’s Spring ’14 femme. After showing us his inspiration board, which was collaged with photos of Pussy Riot, Anjelica Huston holding a gun, and Charlotte Rampling in Night Porter, as well as Jane Fonda and Patty Hearst’s mug shots and a series of Riot Grrrl-related pictures, it became pretty clear that Borgo’s new range was inspired by feminism, women’s lib, and old-fashioned girl power. This translated into a militaristic collection filled with wares that scream tough, high-gloss glam. One series, which included a no-nonsense gunmetal ear cuff, a choker, and a massive bracelet, was adorned with druzy-embellished medallions that mimic old war metals. Meanwhile, a DIY-themed necklace—crafted to resemble a grenade pin—transforms into a screwdriver (every girl needs one), and a surprisingly comfortable full-finger ring mimicked the teeth of a zipper. This was a recurring motif—zippers were made into sharp gilded or silver bracelets, and pulls became earrings, or tassels on a punk-tinged cuff.
The designer reimagined his signature chevrons this season, morphing them into razor-sharp fangs on cuffs and earrings—this added to the collection’s eff off appeal. Same goes for a giant silver dog tag necklace that can be custom-engraved, and a chained hand piece that could have been plucked right out of a vintage horror film—albeit an haute one.
He says: “I wanted to get back to the roots of who our customer is and to capture the spirit of [the Eddie Borgo] girl. This collection really became about female power. It’s important to me that the jewelry makes women feel powerful and beautiful, and that it gives them strength.”
Where to find it: Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Net-a-Porter, The Webster, and www.eddieborgo.com, among others.
—Katharine K. Zarrella
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