Sep 24th 2013, 19:59, by Katharine K. Zarrella
Since signing on as Closed’s creative director last year, Kostas Murkudis has taken the Italian-born (but now German-based) label in a refreshing new direction. While the line is famed for its raw selvedge denim, Murkudis has been focusing on an accompanying range of ready-to-wear, which this season was inspired by Brazil and “Urban Tropicalism.” What does that mean, exactly? For starters, the Spring ’14 lineup included plenty of street-ready separates in punchy, tropical hues. White, yellow, or cerulean waffle knits were overlaid with sheer organza for an on-trend, sporty look, a tracksuit was covered in an electric-blue-and-violet photo print, and simple skirts and silky shorts looked as though they were plucked off a luxe soccer field. Leather tops and frocks were hole-punched to create a mesh effect—this same technique was used on a particularly slick bomber. Here, the perforated leather was lined with fabric in cobalt and emerald hues. Meanwhile, neoprene coats in white or turquoise had a tech appeal, and in one instance, a two-toned jacket-and-trousers ensemble—cut from the brand’s signature denim—was made to look like a jogging suit.
Murkudis’ influences manifested themselves most interestingly in a series of embroidered silk kimono-sport-jacket hybrids. Offered in long and short styles, the toppers—some of which featured stripes down the sleeves—were reportedly inspired by Brazil’s thriving Japanese communities. “The collection is a mélange of sportswear, utility, and fashion,” Murkudis told Style.com. “It goes back to the initial concept of Closed…[and] the fact that I can use the codes of uniforms and…cultural backgrounds is very inspiring,” he added.
A spot-on Spring ’14 isn’t all the label is celebrating this season. Tomorrow, Closed will open its first Paris store, which is set at 18 Rue du Poitou, in the third arrondissement. Murkudis explained that selling “and proudly showing our products—almost all of which are handmade—in the fashion capital is the next logical step in order to develop in the European market.” The boutique—a sneak peek at which debuts exclusively above—is clean, classic, and minimal, just like Closed’s aesthetic. The Closed crew will celebrate the milestone tomorrow via a fete with Olivier Zahm and Purple magazine. In fact, the brand has even teamed with Zahm on a limited-edition pair of jeans, which are, of course, dyed purple.
—Katharine K. Zarrella
Photos: Courtesy of Closed (Collection); Frédéric Atlan (Store)
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