style file: Jump on It

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Jul 2nd 2013, 18:43, by Katharine K. Zarrella

Men's jumpsuits from Balmain, Raf Simons, and Hermes

The menswear shows wrapped in Paris last weekend, and while Couture is already well under way, we’d like to briefly revisit the boys’ runways to highlight a noteworthy new trend: the gentleman’s jumpsuit. The unexpected, utilitarian outfits popped up left and right in Paris, providing a sharp contrast to the season’s explosive floral prints. At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian (who is celebrating her twenty-fifth year at the house) offered a collared steel-gray onesie—complete with a matching skinny belt and cargo pockets on the chest. A.P.C.‘s Jean Touitou also submitted a slate-dyed jumpsuit, though his option looked tougher—a more macho spin on the silhouette.

At his eponymous label, Raf Simons afforded his spin on the look: a male romper. In hues of plum, malachite, and black, the wares—some of which were complemented by barbershop-stripe belts—were quintessentially the designer’s own, and artfully challenging.

And finally, Olivier Rousteing turned out multiple hard-edged takes on the jumpsuit—in denim, leather, and jersey—for his naval-inspired Balmain collection. The style might take some getting used to, but some of these one-pieces have the potential to be pretty darn masculine (“Greased Lightning,” anyone?). And, given the industry clout of the above, the term “suiting” might have a whole new meaning by the time Spring rolls around.

—Nick Remsen

Photos :Courtesy of Balmain; Marcus Tondo/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Raf Simons); Marcus Tondo/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Hermes)

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