With the London shows wrapping today, and editors and models jetting off to Milan, it’s time to reflect on the catwalking highlights from the past two weeks. More so than any in recent memory, this season has been dominated by fresh faces. Nearly every new girl on our top-ten list from Spring, like Marine Deleeuw, Irina Kravchenko, Manon Leloup, and Esther Heesch, had majorly successful sophomore outings. But the Fall shows have brought in an additional crop of noteworthy rookies in demand.
Let’s begin with the handful of former Balenciaga exclusives, whose takeoffs were all but inevitable. Sam Rollinson (above, top left), who starred in a Burberry ad back in 2010 and was handpicked by Nicolas Ghesquière last season, had a strong NYFW. (She opened Reed Krakoff and walked Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, and Narciso Rodriguez, among others.) With a hometown advantage, the British brunette—whose cheekbones could cut glass—kept it up across the pond, scoring spots at Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, and Giles. Two other Balenciaga favorites—Kremi Otashliyska and Chiharu Okunugi (above, lower right)—are also becoming runway regulars. The former hit catwalks at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs, while the Japanese stunner took turns at Rag & Bone, Rodarte, and Marc Jacobs in New York, and Erdem and Giles in London.
Opening the Alexander Wang show is usually a surefire way to go straight to the top, but this season, the second girl out—Tess Hellfeuer (above, top right)—is getting all the buzz. The model finished New York by closing Marc Jacobs, then emerged as a clear favorite of Russell Marsh in London, where she opened Jonathan Saunders and walked in Christopher Kane. Mijo Mihaljcic has also been making all the right appearances in London. Her tomboy appeal landed her spots at Burberry Prorsum, Jonathan Saunders, and Richard Nicoll.
Our list of newcomers wouldn’t be complete without a trio of Russians. Feline beauty Kate Bogucharskaia walked in a few select Spring shows and stepped things up during pre-fall and Haute Couture. During NYFW, she closed Jason Wu, opened Marchesa, and popped up at Vera Wang and Marc Jacobs. Katya Riabinkina also made an impression last season (in Milan, particularly) and came out swinging for Fall; she was a semi-exclusive at Alexander Wang, closed Derek Lam, opened Belstaff, and walked in Altuzarra and Calvin Klein. Last but not least is Sasha Luss (above, lower left), who’s been on our radar for some time but is now officially having a moment. Luss opened Vera Wang and Tommy Hilfiger, closed Altuzarra, and walked in everything from Alexander Wang and Calvin Klein to Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler. Although this trifecta was absent from London, we’re hoping to see a strong showing in Milan and Paris.
Naturally, we love a newbie, but we can’t help but get excited when runway vets decide to return for a show or two. Sure, Carolyn Murphy’s Calvin Klein cameo was amazing. But how about the one-two punch that was Sasha Pivovarova and Luca Gadjus at Proenza Schouler? Kristen McMenamy bookended Giles, looking ghostly glam as ever. (And who could forget her brazen daughter, Lily, who did a lap at Marc Jacobs with just a gloved hand covering her bare chest?) However, Tom Ford’s cast impressed us the most: Liya Kebede, Anja Rubik, Karmen Pedaru, Karlie Kloss, Julia Stegner, Lily Donaldson—the gang was all there. Ford even got Arizona Muse and Joan Smalls, who were both absent from the New York shows, to come out of hiding. Needless to say, his lineup was “super” in every sense of the word.
—Brittany Adams
Photos: GoRunway.com
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