The show of the week—in news value alone, probably the show of the season—was Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear debut for Dior. The new guy didn’t disappoint. Serenity and sex appeal, it turns out, are not mutually exclusive; nor are sex appeal and that endlessly freighted fashion word, “minimalism.” More on that to come, and from wiser heads than mine. (Here’s looking at you, Blanks.) I’ll just add to the discussion that I was quite taken with the paint-striped denim jacket Simons wore to take his bow, too. I am, admittedly, something of a jean jacket junkie; I’ve just come by my fourth (Junya, if you want to know). But I wondered aloud via Twitter what Simons might be wearing and the answer came back in minutes: Helmut Lang, ‘96 vintage.
With the resurgence of minimalism—whatever it turns out to mean—via Simons and Jil Sander, Lang’s name has hung over the season like an open secret. Now a piece of his has made a physical appearance, too. I’ll leave it to others to tease out the influence of Lang on the current collection and on the Spring collections overall, whatever it may be or not be. Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar, and sometimes a jean jacket is just a jean jacket. I’m focusing my attentions on a more pressing question: Where can I get one?
—Matthew Schneier
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com
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